Although the folded paper takeout box has become an icon associated with Americanized Chinese food, this ingenious container was originally designed as an “oyster pail.” It is largely forgotten, but in the late 1800s through the mid 1900s oysters where plentiful and a mainstay of the working-class diet in United States coastal communities. Some records suggest that the general population became obsessed with oysters.
This quote that appeared in an 1861 publication entitled Oysters sums up the enthusiasm: “The oyster, when eaten moderately, is, without contradiction, a wholesome food, and one of the greatest delicacies in the world. It contains much nutritive substance, which is very digestive, and produces a peculiar charm and an inexplicable pleasure. After having eaten oysters we feel joyous, light, and agreeable—yes, one might say, fabulously well.” Today I know that the fondness for oysters can divide a room, so for full disclosure I adore them.
It wasn’t until the mid-twentieth century, when over-fishing dwindled the availability of oysters, that this humble container was repurposed as a Chinese takeout food container. The dramatically increased interest in Chinese cuisine — albeit adapted to America taste — took off after WWII. During this period there was simultaneously an explosive demand for “takeout” foods, and “Chinese food” became a popular option. Fredrick Wilcox’s economical paper food container was ideal for Chinese takeout due to its self-insulating properties and ability to hold moist dishes, various sauces and soups.
The popularity of Chinese food and the use of these containers has only increased over the years. Today there are more than 40,000 Chinese restaurants in the United States, making them more common than McDonalds. These containers have become so popular and widespread that the Smithsonian National Museum of American History mounted an exhibition of the Chinese takeout containers in 2011 entitled Sweat and Sour: A Look at the History of Chinese Food in the United States.
Found objects, irrespective of scale, have a history, and their origin relates to a specific moment in time. They have a pre-existing meaning, purpose, and logic or deep structure. Unlike most artists who utilize found objects as a cynical alternative to producing an original, unique work, this sculptural series entitled takeout treats the humble oyster pail as a set of circumstances that await a response — an opportunity to express and explore one’s limited but transformational agency. The use of found objects in contemporary art can help confront our troubled, complicated history and unpack events that have been forgotten or marginalized.