I have done my share of remote minimalist backwoods camping, but there is something magical about traveling to an extremely remote location with access to all the modern conveniences — such as a great cup of coffee, prepared hot meals, entertainment, electricity, and a proper bed. This is exactly what I experienced while visiting the Princess Louisa Inlet on the west coast of Canada. The fjord is close to four miles long. At the north end is Chatterbox Falls — a large stream and waterfall that delivers its cold fresh water into the saltwater bay. Surrounding the falls is a 2,200+ acre preserve that is operated by the Nature Conservancy of Canada and the Princess Louisa Conservancy Society in coordination with the Canadian Park Service. To get to the falls you must travel by boat or float plane. My trek there took several days, beginning with a car ride from Bellingham, Washington, a bus, a long walk with luggage, two ferries and finally a small speed boat. The last leg of the trip set off from a private resort called Malibu situated on a dramatic spit at the throat of the inlet. The water rushes back, forth, around the isthmus as it makes its way through a narrow passage. The currents created by the tide can reach over nine knots. This can make entering the inlet difficult for less powerful boats.
From this location you have amazing 360-degree views that stretch up the entire sound. In 1940 this amazing piece of land was purchased by Thomas Hamilton, an American aviation executive, for $500. Hamilton developed the land into a luxury resort called the Malibu Club that attracted the jet set and Hollywood elite. However, in 1950 the resort was abruptly abandoned due to a polio outbreak. Plates and dishes were simply left on the tables, while furnishings and bedding were left in place. In 1953 the property was sold to Young Life and turned into a camp for teens. The Malibu Club has been expanded and refined — it is now capable of being used year-round. The campus is now powered by a new hydro turbine that harnesses a waterfall a few miles across the outer sound. The electric cable was accidently dropped during installation and the submersible used to find the Titanic was employed to retrieve the line. Every week a large private ferry brings in a new batch of visitors and all the needed supplies. A small full-time staff and an army of more than a hundred volunteers run the resort, which is now equipped with every manner of accommodation and convenience. The opportunity to experience this breathtaking landscape with such support was splendid and luxurious.